Sewing Machine Needles

Recently, I have seen quite a few people who just bought their first sewing machine. They are excited to get started and come in looking for  advice to get them started. One of the items that I try to take some time to go over with them is sewing machine needles. There are a variety of types and gauges to meet whatever your sewing needs might be.

First of all, no matter what type of needle, they all have a particular gauge.

The gauge refers to the girth of the needle; how thin or thick the needle is.

You will see numbers like:

  • 70/10;
  • 80/12;
  • 90/14;
  • 100/16;
  • 110/18.

70’s (10’s) are fine, 110’s (16’s) are thick. When choosing a gauge think of it being relative to the weight of the fabric.

Sewing chiffon? Use a fine needle. Sewing many layers of denim or canvas? Use a heavy needle.

For most sewing a 12 gauge will do the trick.

Needle tips vary depending on what they are designed to do. There are three main varieties:

  • sharp;
  • ballpoint
  • and leather.

Sharp tips are used for woven fabrics. It’s best to avoid these if you are sewing knits. Think of pantyhose; they are knitted. If something damages one of the threads (imagine a sharp needle cutting a thread as it sews) you get a run in the fabric. How do you know whether needles are sharp? You can be sure that packages labeled either Universal or Jeans will have standard sharp tips.


Jean Needles

Jean needles are sharp needles with a heavy gauge. These usually range from a 14 gauge to an 18 gauge. On my industrial machine, I use a 16 gauge for this type of work. If I were using a household machine, I’d probably go with an 18. Jean needles are rugged, because it takes a rugged needle to sew through heavy jean seams.

Quilting Needles

Quilting needles are sharp and have a particular taper to them that minimizes skipped stitches when either piecing or quilting. These can range in gauge from 10 to 14. In my store, I carry a multi-pack of quilting needles that has the entire range of gauges. In a dedicated quilt shop, you would find full packs of each gauge. Many quilters have a specific gauge that they like to use. Some prefer on gauge for their piecing and a heavier gauge for machine quilting.

Topstitch Needles

Topstitch needles are designed to be used with heavier topstitching thread. They are a heavy gauge needle, usually 16 or 18. What sets these apart from jean needles is that they have a large eye to accommodate topstitching thread. Assume that these will be sharp needles.

Ballpoint Tips

Ballpoint tips are used for knit fabrics. These are pretty cool. They look and feel sharp when you touch them. But the tips have a very fine ball point that allows the needle to gracefully move between the threads that makes up the fabric, rather than piercing through, like a sharp does. Because most people use their serger for knits, needle packs that are specifically labeled for a serger are safe to use for knits. Ballpoint needles are usually labeled as “stretch needles”.

Twin Needles

Twin Needles are a form of topstitch needle. This needle has a single shank that allows you to install it as you would any other needle. Then it has a bar into which two needles have been embedded. Your machine must be able to accommodate two spools of thread to use this type of needle. It only needs one bobbin for both. Many machines have a hole on the top of the machine, and a secondary thread holder to fit into it. You would find that in the accessory kit that came with your machine. If it was lost, you can order one specific to the make and model of the machine. Twin needles come in both sharp and ballpoint. The packages will indicate whether they are intended for stretch sewing, for jeans or are simply a universal needle. They come with different distances between the needles as well. If you are using these for the first time, definitely take the time to practice before sewing your garment. These will have a decent sized eye, depending on the gauge of the needle.

Leather Needles

Leather needles mean business! The ends of these needles have three sides that come down to a point. Each of the three sides cuts through the leather. There are no “take backs” when you sew leather. Once you make a hole, you’ve made a hole. It is there forever. You really don’t want to use these for any fabric that isn’t leather. Don’t even use them on vinyl. (If you are sewing vinyl, use a universal needle in a gauge relative to how heavy your vinyl is.)

Although for most things you can get away with using a mid-gauge universal needle, the many specialized varieties of needles allow you to have confidence in a consistently successful result.

Happy Sewing!



With This Ring, I thee Strand!

Sometimes you see something and your immediate reaction is: “Well that’s hokey.” Sometimes you’re right. But sometimes you need to set your first impression aside and give it a chance to prove itself. My “Well that’s hokey” moment was with a ring designed for use in stranded knitting. I gave it a very skeptical try, and now I wonder how I ever lived without this clever little device.

A year ago, I entered the 2017 Tour de Sock competition.

The warm up pattern was my first experience with stranded colour knitting. In the chatter thread on the forum, people were talking about devices they used to manage their yarn. Some people used rings or springs to separate the strands, yet hold them in one hand. They swore by them. I looked for these products but my catalogues never had them. Then one day, I got an email from my supplier about new products they had brought in and the “Boye Finger Guides” were among them. I ordered them thinking that at least I would be able to offer something of this nature to my customers. When they arrived, it was busy. So I didn’t think about them much; I just got them into the inventory and onto the shelf. I then promptly forgot about them.

Tour de Sock 2018 is in now underway (registration ends July 7, 2018). I’m working on this season’s warm up sock; a stranded project. I got to the point that I was ready to turn the heel, and I remembered about the finger guides I had brought in. I took one out of the package, took a good look at it and I will be completely honest. I was fully prepared to expose this stranding ring for being silly.  It comes with no instructions. There is a photograph on the package that shows someone combining 3 strands of light yarn together to make one strand of thicker yarn as they knit a project. Of course, the image is set up to make the yarn look pretty. So you can’t use that image as any guide to how you should hold your yarn or use the product (in the real world).

First off, my preference is to knit in continental style. I tension the yarn with my left hand and I pick the thread with my right hand. Up until now, when doing stranded colour work, I carried my main or dominant colour in my left and my contrast colour in my right. I picked the main colour from my left hand and I threw the contrast colour with my right hand.

When I first learned how to strand, it took me a little while to get past the awkwardness of carrying two yarns at once.

Throwing the yarn with my right hand was very cumbersome at first.

Once I got accustomed to it, I found that I was almost as fast knitting with two colours as I was with one. Remembering this, I gave my attitude a shake. Trying anything new is going to be awkward and I really did want to be fair in my assessment of this product. I decided I would keep on trying long enough to get past the awkwardness of it being new to me.

So the ring itself is rubbery. It stretches and I would guess that it should fit most adult hands. The top of the ring is flat with a couple little holes.

There are three platforms that each have 3 hooks.
These are designed to accommodate

  • light,
  • medium or
  • heavy yarns.

Now, the heavy one looks to me like it would accommodate a worsted yarn. It might be okay for a chunky, but definitely nothing heavier. On the bottom of the platforms are a couple pegs that fit nicely into the holes on the flat top of the ring.


I selected the platform that was right for my yarn. I had to fuss around with it to figure out how to hold my yarn and which direction to have the hooks facing to get a sense of what would actually work and not end up slower than what I was already doing. I spent about half an hour with very poor results before I had a brain-wave. I won’t bore you with the details of all the things that failed.

In the end what I found to work well for me was to have the hooks face toward my left wrist. I brought the two yarns together, wrapped them around my pinky (as I always do to manage the tension),  and then I hooked the yarns in from opposite directions. So the main (dominant) colour I brought from the front of my hand over the top of the ring and into the far left hook. The contrasting yarn, I brought from behind my index finger, across the top of the ring and into the far right hook. I hold my index finger relatively high. Some folks hold it lower. I don’t expect that this would make much difference. This puts your index finger between the working yarns. You can easily choose the one you want from the correct orientation.

It’s important that you always keep the two yarns in the same position relative to each other in this type of knitting. One will always be taken from the left, the other always from the right.

Inconsistency results in sloppy colour dominance in the finished work.

On this particular pattern, the heel turn requires stranded purling. I am delighted to report that it was just as easy to purl using this ring using this set up, as it was to knit. Although it was very awkward to figure out what would work, once I found it, it was great, and fast. I love it!

Happy Knitting!

Foot Loose – Knee Socks

Diamond Luxury Foot Loose is a fun, hand dyed, 4-ply yarn. At 75% super-wash merino and 25% polyamide, its fibre content is pretty typical of sock yarn. It is put up in 100 g skeins/ 396 m. The label lists a gauge of 30 stitches to 42 rows producing a 10 cm swatch on 3 mm needles. I personally wouldn’t use 3 mm for socks with this yarn. If I were making a shawl or a sweater, I probably would. The price point is lower than you would expect for a hand dyed yarn.

This yarn is very soft. I used 2.5 mm needles and it knitted up to the gauge I expected for any sock yarn. The colourways are interesting and fun. The result is a random-ish speckly fabric, absolutely lovely to the touch.

I used it to knit a pair of knee socks for my daughter. I used the Bintje pattern by Jatta Pauliina. The pattern is lovely. I have had it in my library on Ravelry for a very long time so I was happy to finally knit it up. I feel that the instructions assume that you have knit socks before. Other than one typo it was straight forward. In the heel turn, when you are knitting on the right side, where you normally slip the first stitch it says to k1.

I had to read the calf shaping section a few times to fully comprehend what I was supposed to do. That may have been because it was my first pair of shaped knee socks, though. It may also be that the designer’s first language is not English. This pattern is a free Ravelry download. I made the socks taller than the picture and I probably could have made them one or two pattern repeats shorter than I did. I had to start a second skein to complete them. My daughter has small feet (ladies 6.5 – 7) so the feet look a wee bit disproportionate to the legs. The photo has them stretched onto a large sock blocker. It distorts the heel a little but I wanted to show them off.


I worked a yarn-over hole into the outside of each cuff to pull elastic through. I tied the ribbon around the elastic. I love the look of the Foot Loose yarn. It’s quite beautiful.

I look forward to using it again in a different colourway.

To Stock, or Not to Stock…

In small town retail, deciding what to stock (and how much of it) is an ongoing process and an inexact science.

  • Trends come and go;
  • supply lines change;
  • economies change.

Discerning what to keep or not can be challenging. One of the things I love about having a store is that I can decide what I want to buy to put on the shelves. A lot goes into that decision-making process.

The Base-Line Stuff

There are certain staples that I just have to have on hand.

  • Basic sewing notions;
  • knitting and crochet tools
  • and accessories;
  • a good cross-section of elastic;
  • scissors…

you know, all those fundamental things that sewing and fibre arts enthusiasts need for their projects. These no-brainer items are easy to recognize and you simply have to have them… whatever your small business niche happens to be.

Direct customer requests

A lot of what I have on my shelves is there because a customer special ordered it.

Most of the time if one person asks for it, others will want it too. Often customers will ask me for something and it’s a product that should be a staple in my store… I just didn’t think of it before they asked.

Sometimes they introduce me to new products that I didn’t even know existed.


With many products, suppliers require that you purchase a minimum number.

Each colour of yarn comes in bags of either 5, 6 or 10, for instance. Other products have different prices depending on how many you buy. If you buy singles, you pay more; yet hey, in a small town, I can’t say that I need to buy 1,000 or 10,000 of anything! So the higher singles price it often must be. With a lot of the little items, (like sewing notions) they give you a small break if you order multiples of either 3 or 5. It may not be a lot, (often it’s only pennies difference) but it all helps. This can make a difference as to whether I decide to order it or not.

Colour Choices

With yarn in particular, each line has a variety of colourways.

Although some only have 6 or 8 colours available, some of them can have between 60 and 70 different colours each. It’s unrealistic for me to carry every colour of every yarn I have in the shop.

Choosing the colours can be both fun and frustrating.

I would love to have them all. Shortlisting from 60 to 8 can be tough! When I bring in a new line of yarn, I usually go through what is available and start with neutrals and basics. I might start with 6 or 8 colours to begin with. Once I get some feedback from customers I can then decide whether to continue carrying that yarn and to expand the colour selection, or to sell it off and focus on something different. Then, if I’m placing an order and I don’t have quite enough to make the minimum order, I may look to see what new colour I’d like to carry in an established line to top up the order.

Supplier Rapport

Each supplier has its own personality.

Their energy can range from feeling like family to quite formal to downright frenetic. If a company is going through changes (like implementing a new computer system; or was just bought out) there can be a lot of chaos going on for them. Orders can be mixed up or lost. Ordering from a company that is chaotic can be stressful… and can make the difference between deciding not to bother with their product and just ordering from someone else.

  • If the people who answer the phone are extremely difficult to understand, orders can end up incorrect.
  • If the staff is constantly changing it can be difficult to sustain a good rapport with the company. If a company makes promises it can’t keep, it affects me. Especially if those promises involve special orders.
  • Websites that are not maintained can create unrealistic expectations regarding product availability.

All these factors come into play. If ordering from one company is stressful and I can get what I want from a different company with whom ordering is friendly and easy, I’ll go where the least stress is. Over time, you build relationships with your suppliers. They get to know what your business needs and they can often make helpful suggestions regarding new products or programs that they offer.

The Cool Stuff

And yeah, there’s just some stuff that is so cool, you gotta have it on hand.

It may be a funky take on something from the basic tools category. It may be a more luxurious version of something basic. Sometimes I just really like something and I can’t resist ordering it.

Shifting Times and Trends

Once you have a bunch of stock on the shelves there comes a point when you also have to decide whether you enough of it moves to justify the real estate it takes up.

As a trend starts to inch toward its end it can be hard to know when to sign off on it. I have made the mistake of reordering when I should have cleared off the shelf. And that can be tough to discern. You win some, you lose some.

Cash Flow

And isn’t that the biggest determining factor for most things?

At the end of the day, you have to be able to pay your bills. It’s easy to get carried away buying stuff. I don’t know any small business owner who hasn’t had that moment when the feeling in the pit of their stomach makes them pray that their buying choices will pay off. It usually works itself out though.

At the end of the day, choosing the stuff to sell in my store is the best part of my job. And when the parcels arrive, it’s like Christmas! What’s not to love?

Sirdar Gorgeous Review

Have you seen those images of blankets knitted with crazy thick yarn on the internet? Sirdar Gorgeous is a single ply Ultra Super Chunky yarn. Doesn’t that alone make it sound amazing? Ultra Super! If we were talking comic books, that would be like having an Ultra Superman… Well today I’m going to talk about this Ultra Super Chunky Gorgeous Yarn. Even just typing that felt like a mouthful!

To start it all off, the specs on this yarn are as follows: 51% wool; 49% acrylic. They recommend 20mm  needles to obtain a 10cm swatch with a gauge of 5 stitches by 6 rows. The skeins are 150g and sell for around $22.50 each.

I have to be honest. I was very reluctant to sell single ply yarn in general.

Back when I was a kid, we raised sheep. We would send the fleece off to have it processed and would get some of it in the form of cakes of a roving-like yarn that could either easily be spun or was typical of what people made Cowichan style cardigans from. My memory of working that was that because of my typical tension, it would just come apart unless I spun it first. When my rep showed Gorgeous to me, I looked at him sideways (the look you would give a snake-oil salesman that you see through) and said,

“Uh, seriously? People actually WANT this stuff?” He laughed out loud and said that it was proving to be quite popular.

The first thing to acknowledge is that when you either crochet or knit with any thick yarn, because of the actual girth of it, mileage is relative to its weight. The thicker the yarn the less the mileage.

You’ll get less mileage from a DK than a fingering yarn; less from chunky than from DK or worsted and so on.

Gram for gram, you are going to pay about the same as you do for any other yarn. When you look at the mileage (okay, “yardage”) on the package you can see the difference. For instance, 100g of fingering yarn usually gives you 400m of yarn. Sirdar Gorgeous is 150g and 50m. So out of 100g of it you are going to get around 33m. That having been said, in fingering weight yarn you will cast on around 34 or 35 stitches to make a 10cm swatch in comparison to the 5 stitches in Gorgeous. Yes, it works up at light speed. Man, you can put a blanket together in no time flat with this stuff. But it takes a lot of skeins.

Sirdar has provided a number of patterns to support this yarn.

In addition to a number of single-skein projects (hats, cowls…) there are also patterns for throws and for an ottoman-like cushion. Of course, you can also just wing it and make a blanket or a poncho or whatever your heart desires. 🙂


I started out crocheting this yarn. The first thing to note is that you need to have a very light touch with it. I found that where I normally guide the yarn with one hand to control tension, I really had to simply guide it to be sure it wouldn’t catch on anything. I barely held any tension on it at all. I am a knitter at heart. I can crochet and for some things crochet works best. With the size of this yarn, I just really didn’t care for the size of the holes between the stitches. After a while, I realized that I wasn’t going to be happy with the result. I unraveled enough to cast on 60 stitches on 20mm circular needles and continued to take the crochet apart as I knitted. I didn’t want to take it all apart and run the risk of tangling it all up. Now, if you love crochet, you may have loved it the way it was. I’m not saying you shouldn’t crochet it. It’s all about preference.

For me (sock knitting is my happy place), this yarn felt GINORMOUS to handle. It took me a bit to just get used to it. I normally knit continental style, carrying the yarn in my left hand and picking the yarn with the right needle. I am finding that with this yarn as thick as it is, I just naturally started throwing the yarn with my right hand instead. Again, it requires a very light touch. If you tend to pull hard on your yarn, you’ll have to back way off on your tension to avoid tearing the yarn apart as you go.

I played around with changing colours in a couple ways. I don’t like knots in my work if I can avoid them.

With this yarn they would be way too obvious.

First, I pulled away about half the yarn from the last 4 inches or so of each colour and then twisted the two together. But that (although it worked) gave me a candy-cane effect for the stitches that contained the join. If joining the same colour, it works fine. Then I did something like a Russian join instead. So, I still pulled away about half the bulk of the yarn for the first 6 inches or so on each. But, instead of laying them onto each other and twisting, I folded them around each other (like links of a chain) and then twisted on either side of the link respectively. This gave me a clear divide between the two colours, no knots, and I was able to be very precise about where the colour change occurred.

Sirdar recommends a cold hand-wash and to lay it flat to dry; shaping as necessary while it is still wet. I have not washed it yet, but I would be terrified of what a washing machine would do to it. So, bathtub it is for my blanket.

The resulting fabric is so thick, soft, fluffy and cuddly that I suspect you’ll have to fight everyone else off to be the one who gets to snuggle under a Gorgeous blanket!

Happy Mother’s Day

From the time we are born and through all the stages of our lives,

our perspective on what “mother” means evolves and changes.

Our understanding of the role of mother changes along with our relationships with those people who fill that role in our lives.

As a child, my mom was the one who baked the bread, stoked the fire (we didn’t have electricity for some time), tucked us in and determined which transgressions warranted the dreaded,

“wait until your father comes home!”

As I got older, and wrestled with the concept that my mom was actually just a person, my perspective shifted. How dare she not be supernatural, after all? How dare she not know all the answers? How dare she not be perfect? How dare she not be, well, a Goddess?

My grandmothers lived in Germany.

I didn’t get to see them very often. I envied the kids who had local grandmothers who spoiled them and regularly did fun things with them. (Although, I always thought I had them beat that my Oma and I got to see a family of skunks walk within a couple feet of us one day when we were peeling potatoes outdoors under a big tree. Baby skunks are the cutest!)

I loved my grandmothers in a way that was very different from the way I loved my mom.

When I became a mother, my paradigm spun around, did a back flip and landed with a whole new outlook. Suddenly I was holding a tiny human being in my arms. That tiny human being looked up at me with absolute trust. In that moment, my whole world was rocked. I realized that this job, this role called “motherhood” was going to be the single most important thing I would ever do in my life. This little human’s whole world was going to be affected by every choice I made on her behalf, every word I whispered, spoke or yelled. It was the single most humbling moment of my life. It gave me pause to look back over my childhood and assess misconceptions I had toward my own mother. It made me wonder how she had managed raising five of us. The sheer responsibility of it all was a little overwhelming. And I resolved to channel my inner Mama Grizzly Bear on my little baby’s behalf.

As my kids got older and made their way through all their stages, I did my best to be there for them. I also did my best to make sure they knew that I was flying by the seat of my pants without a “User’s Manual”. And at the end of the day, I made sure to do everything in my power to make sure they knew that I loved them and that no matter what, I would have their backs.

And now that my kids are grown and have lives of their own, my role in their lives has changed… and yet it hasn’t.

I still maintain that at the end of the day I want them to know that I love them and that I have their backs. When they need desperately to vent about some frustration in their lives, or to celebrate a victory, I want them to know that I feel blessed to be their sounding board. They happily return the favour for me. These days, it isn’t just my kids. It’s also my partner’s “kids” and all their partners too. And I love that they are part of this circle.


My mother passed away a number of years ago.

I feel fortunate to have developed a wonderful relationship with my Mother-in-law. We are together every day, and it’s a fabulous thing. We are there for each other and have each other’s backs.

And so motherhood evolves into grandmotherhood.

My spell-check says that this is not a word; I vehemently disagree. And it’s a very interesting shift. There is a different kind of connection in this new role. The stress of just keeping those little buggers alive every day is not my stress any more. Now it’s just about the love. How cool is that?

To me, entering into grandmotherhood is like being honoured with a distinctive promotion into a revered position of trust. That’s just the best! Well, that and the hugs from wee little arms, the smiles from wee little lips and the video clips of  “I love you, Oma!” that melt my heart every time I replay them.


No one ever said that being a mother would be easy. And it isn’t. But man, it’s the most rewarding role I could ever imagine holding.

Here’s to celebrating all the people who have held the role of mother in our lives.

Happy Mother’s Day





pictures thanks to:  Samantha Hurley and Nicole De Khors from Burst

Spring Cardigan Fever

This was a very snowy winter for us. On April 30th there was still a remnant of the once huge snow pile in our parking lot. By the end of May 1st the last of that snow was finally gone.

I officially turned off the furnace; that makes it cardigan season!

Since completing my  “Chance of Showers” cardigan this season, I have been on the lookout for another cardigan pattern to dive into. I want something that fits close to my body, is short waisted, interesting without being an obnoxious amount of fussy work, 3/4 sleeves, open necked, knitted all in one, and buttoned up. Oh and I want it to look like it has set-in sleeves. Hmmm that’s a lot of parameters, isn’t it?

My search has taken me down that rabbit hole called Pinterest. So many beautiful cardigan photos are posted there! But you know what? I’ll find what I think is the most glorious cardigan ever, click on it, and find that it either goes to some foreign site in a language I can’t read or it terminates in a photo and no way of finding the pattern. I have to say it: “This makes me very sad!” I finally gave up on Pinterest and started looking on Ravelry instead.

In my searching I found something very cool.

I love to knit but I hate having to sew pieces together once the knitting is done. I will do it because I actually really want to wear what I make. So I’ve been on the look out for patterns that allow you to make your garment all in one piece. I like the look of a set in sleeve and I always thought there must be a way to mimic that look yet not have seams. I often thought about sussing out how that could actually work. But I never really had the time to commit to experimenting with it. I’m happy to say that someone else had the same thought; and they did take the time to figure out how to do it. Susie Myers has named it contiguous knitting. It’s worth checking out. There is a group on Ravelry devoted to this method. Find it here!

An explanation of how it works is found here

Susie Meyers has a link to her “recipe” for building a sweater in this way. Here is the link.

I read through it and realized quickly that simply following the recipe will require some trial and error. Unfortunately, my life is so full that I don’t see myself having the patience or time to put into that trial and error process. However, then I noticed that there is a long list of patterns that use Susie’s technique in their construction. Here is a link to that list.

I figure that for the first time I try this, I will buy a pattern and follow it so that I get a feeling for how it works.

After that, I’ll take what I learned and perhaps try winging one. I looked at all the patterns in the list. (There were a couple that don’t actually count as contiguous. I suspect that those will be culled as they are discovered by the moderator.) There are some lovely patterns there. Two in particular caught my eye and fit my parameters quite nicely. There were a couple more that looked promising too. Most of these patterns are for sale, and not free. I don’t mind paying for patterns. There is a lot of work in putting them together. The designers will never get rich off the few dollars we pay them per pattern! I like to support their creativity so they’ll continue to make more patterns for us all. Here are the links to the ones that I am considering knitting:

Alecia Beth

I absolutely LOVE this pattern. It looks feminine and fancy without being so fancy I wouldn’t want to wear it every day. Fingering weight yarn makes such a nice cardigan especially for spring. My only hesitation is that it is fingering weight yarn and that’s quite a commitment.

Alecia Beth

© gosik, © gosik, by jettshin  Flickr


I love that this next sweater is mostly stockinette stitch, but it has a little bit of pattern to keep it from being boring. It’s also out of fingering weight yarn which makes it ideal for a spring sweater since it won’t be terribly heavy. But again… that is a lot of stitches. Do I have the courage and tenacity to make a 4 ply sweater? That’s the question.


© attimania, © attimania, © Quietsch


Ciel, Une Fille!

This next one is a free pattern. It’s very pretty. I would probably choose something a little less fluffy than what they did but I love the look of it. It’s adorable! I think I would simply shorten the sleeves to a 3/4. It calls for worsted weight, so I see that as being very achievable in spite of my busy schedule. The pattern itself doesn’t have any photos on it, but there are photos on Ravelry that you can refer to.

Ciel, une fille!

© tatacharlotte


Seelie Cardi

This one is a free download. I really like the look of the photo. I have to say, my first thought was that one of my sisters would rock this sweater as is. I downloaded it and lo and behold! It is a tutorial that guides you through making a contiguous sweater out of any yarn. Interesting… this would be an option.

Seelie Cardi

© britt schmiesing


So now, it’s all about making a decision. Not that I don’t have other knitting on the go. I actually have 3 pairs of socks on needles right now, and a shawl and a ball of yarn divided for yet another pair of socks waiting to be cast on. Must be the spring sunshine bringing out the “Startitis” in me. Well, that and the fact that my current cardigans are just a teenie bit too warm now and I’m putting them on and taking them off all day long to stay comfy. I definitely need a spring cardigan… Eenie, Meenie, Miney Moe?

Wish me luck! Happy Knitting!