Wow! Too Easy! More Gift Ideas

Anyone who crafts or sews will likely own a rotary cutter. These handy tools come in a few different sizes ranging from 28mm to 60mm. The size I find most popular is 45mm. The round blades are razor sharp and allow for nice clean cutting of fabrics and other craft materials. The newest style of blade opens up a whole vista of crafting possibilities.

The regular rotary cutter blade is simply a razor sharp disc that makes a solid clean and straight cut. You can also purchase wave blades that give a gently zig-zagged edge, like you would expect from pinking shears.

What I am excited to tell you about is the new skip cut blade. The skip cut blade has gaps around the cutting edge of the disc. It has many short cutting edges with equal spaces between them. When you use this blade, it gives you small cuts at regular intervals. For the creative individual, the possibilities for this blade are exciting. I just want to talk about two applications.

Quick and Easy Fleece Blanket with a Crochet Border

You start with a piece of Nordic/Polar Fleece fabric. With the edges cleanly cut, corners rounded off and the selvedges removed, use a ruler and rotary cutter fitted with the skip blade and cut an inch in from the outside edge all around the piece of fabric. It’s important to do this in one pass. Press firmly so that you are sure you are cutting all the way through. You now have a series of holes evenly spaced an inch in from the edge of the fabric. This gives you a place to easily crochet into so you can create a crocheted border all around your blanket. The edge folds in half, so you have a double layer of fabric contained within the first round of your crochet edge. I found two different links that show how to do this. Both are relatively long, however they give the necessary information well. The second one is more thorough a demonstration than the first.


Fleece Lined Blanket

The next project I want to share with you is a fleece lined blanket.

You can start with either a crocheted or a knitted blanket that you have already completed. You can either measure your blanket and use those measurements as a guide, or you can lay the blanket on the fleece to mark its size instead. Either way, you want to end up with a full inch all the way around the blanket. In other words, if your blanket is 45″ x 60″, you will want to cut a piece of fleece that is 47″ x 62″. As with the example above, you will use the skip cut rotary blade to make your nice tidy row of holes around the edge. You will have to take some liberties with how you align what you are crocheting with the existing stitches in the crocheted or knitted blanket. I would personally pin the edge profusely before beginning the process of crocheting the fleece to the edge of the blanket. Below is a link to a video in which this technique is demonstrated. This video is very thorough and assumes that you are a beginner.

I was introduced to skip cut blades by a customer who was traveling through Revelstoke. She stopped in my yarn shop and asked whether I carried them. I had never heard of them. While we chatted, I looked it up online through my supplier and found them. I brought them in for her and mailed them to her when they arrived. At the time, I brought in the packs of 5 as they are more cost effective than the individual blades. I have a couple packs still in stock. My next notions order will include some singles, so that if people want to try one out without committing to 5 of them, they have that option. I have a variety of solid colours of fleece in stock and many options for yarn that could be combined with it to make it special. What a great, easy gift to make someone’s life just a little more cozy.

As always, if you like the videos I have linked to and you want to see more from the folks who took the time, effort and care to create them, show them some love. Give them your likes, share the link or subscribe to their channel. Let’s support those amazing creative people in our world. 🙂

Happy Crocheting!


Starting it Pretty: Decorative Cast ons

One of the things that I love about participating in Tour-de-Sock is that each pattern is a surprise. Perhaps for the veterans, it’s all old hat, but for me every stage seems to have one technique that I have never tried before.

The current stage included a decorative cast-on. That got me thinking: how many different decorative cast ons are there? Well I have no intention of tracking down EVERY decorative cast on for my blog. But I thought I’d do a search and see what comes up and then share with you what I find.

In Adrienne Fong’s Plan A Sock pattern (stage 1) we did a twisted cast on. I tried to find a video to support this but couldn’t find one in English. You have to do this one flat. If you want to use it in the round, join it up after the twisting process is complete. Essentially, you begin with a cast on, knit a few rows in garter stitch, depending on how pronounced you want the twists to be. In the next row, you knit a determined number of stitches and then twist the work before knitting the determined number of stitches again; twist the work and repeat. You keep doing that to the end of the row. It is very important that you use a stretchy cast on for this if you are doing something like socks; it has a tendency to bind if you don’t. I think this would be cute at the bottom edge of a sweater.

Guernsey Cast On

This cast on gives an interesting eyelet edge. I wouldn’t use this on socks. However it would be great on sweaters or other garments.


Channel Island Cast on

This cast on gives a subtle picot-like edge.

Frilled “Cast on”

This is more of a border than a true cast on. But it creates a pretty ruffle. This would be marvelous on wee little girl dresses, or at the bottom of a little cardigan.

Shell Cast on

I would call this a scallop cast on. I have seen this done a few different ways. I really like Elizzza’s method. This could work nicely at the top of a sock cuff.

Old Norwegian Scallop Cast on

This one is a little more labour intensive, but it is so beautiful that it would be worth the time and effort. It is a more sophisticated version of the Shell border above.

Picot Cast on

Picots add a nice delicate touch to a border or a hem. (The German name for them translates to “mouse-teeth”. The cartoon narrative in my brain makes that very cute to me.)

Picot hem

This is really a border or hem as opposed to a true cast on. However it falls in the same category, giving a decorative beginning edge. This is commonly seen in socks and can easily be knitted in the round. You could alternatively start with a provisional cast on to make it really easy to knit the stitches together as you fold it to create the picots.

Beaded Picot Cast on

This takes the picot and elevates it. So pretty! Along the hem of a lace cardigan? Oh yeah!

I’m sure that there are many other ways to elevate a cast-on into a beautiful border. These were the ones that really stood out for me. I’m looking forward to incorporating some of them into designs that are rolling around in my head.

I hope that these will inspire you too.

Happy Knitting!

Knitting with Beads

During Tour-de-Sock, you can pretty much be guaranteed that there will be a stage that involves a pattern with beads. Have you noticed, perhaps while scrolling through Pinterest or Instagram, the many exquisite shawls, tops and socks that incorporate beads in their design? If you have never used beads in your knitting, fear not! It doesn’t have to be scary.

There are a few things to take into consideration when choosing beads for a project.

The size of the beads

Beads come in different gauges. They will have numbers on them. The numbers represent how many beads fit in one inch. A #6 bead means that when you line them all up next to each other, 6 beads will measure one inch. Pretty simple, right? Typically sock patterns will call or either #6 or #8 beads. Anything bigger than these and not only will they flop around on the yarn (not that this would matter too much because they’ll be held in place by the work), distort the pattern, or just look silly. Any smaller and you’ll be researching magic spells to get the beads onto the yarn.

The colour of the beads

When choosing beads for your knitting project, keep a few thoughts in mind.

How much do you want the beads to stand out? Do you want them to just give a hint of sparkle? Do you want them to make a statement? Do they have a specific role in the design? For instance, are you knitting a lace pattern that uses the beads to give the appearance of little flowers or berries?

Choosing beads that are too close to the colour and sheen of the yarn can end up feeling like a big old waste of time. I like subtle changes in texture too, but there comes a point when it’s so subtle that you’ll ask yourself why you even bothered. Tips? If you really want a subtle look that’s fine. Make sure that there is something about the beads that will make it worth the effort. Perhaps get silver lined beads in the colour of the yarn so they will catch the light and just give a little sparkle when you move. Or, take a black and white photo of the yarn and the beads together. This way, you can tell whether they are different tones of the same colour family. It’s better if they are different from each other in gray scale.

Going crazy: There is no reason other than personal taste, to hold back in your colour choices. Do you love it? If you do, you’ll wear it.

Application techniques

Crochet hook

This is my preferred method. You use a teenie, tiny crochet hook (less than 1mm). You place the bead on the crochet hook (when it’s time to incorporate it into a stitch) and use the crochet hook to pull the stitch through the hole of the bead. You then place the stitch back on the knitting needle and carry on. Sometimes, you will knit the stitch after you have applied the bead, sometimes you’ll just slip the stitch. Either way, the pattern will tell you what’s next. The down side of this method is that you do need to have your beads in a little dish (like what they use for soy sauce in Sushi restaurants works well). So the potential of spilling them is always there.


Many people like to use Superfloss to attach their beads to their knitting. With this method, you don’t have to have a small container open with beads that could potentially spill. If you’re traveling this is definitely preferable over using a crochet hook. This video demonstrates both the crochet hook and the floss methods of adding beads to knitting.


Prestringing the beads on your working yarn is another option.  I bet you can already imagine the downsides to this method. I mean, what if your project requires 2000 beads? Don’t laugh.

There are projects that require that many beads.

That’s a lot to prestring. Clearly you will want to be very careful not to tangle up your strand. Also, you will be pulling your working yarn through all those beads until they are used up. And hey, if you need multiple skeins of yarn for your project (say a sock weight cardigan), you will want to decide how many of the beads to prestring so you aren’t restringing them for every change of skein. As you can see by the video, the bead sits differently on the work with this method. So if this is the look that you want, this is the method to use.


But, what if you encounter a knot?


Here are links to some beaded projects on Ravelry:

Beaded knitting projects are a wonderful thing! If you haven’t done it before, I encourage you to give it a go. It is easier than you might think and the people who receive your beaded knitting projects will think you have super powers!

Happy Knitting!

A Zippered Lining Pocket

Today I thought I’d do a photo tutorial on how to install a zippered pocket into the lining of a bag. This assumes that you are making the bag from scratch, not attaching it after the fact. I won’t be showing the bag construction here.

Start with the lining fabric that you have cut out to fit your bag. I have cut it out so that the bottom edge is folded rather than seamed. I’m using a satiny lining fabric so I serged around the edge to keep it from fraying. Some people don’t bother doing this step to the lining because it will end up enclosed inside the bag where you won’t have access to it. In my experience,

anything you can do to strengthen the edges of the lining fabric will prevent it blowing out on you later on.

It’s up to you. I personally hate the feeling of the frayed edges as I’m working… it reminds me of getting caught in a spider web.

  • Measure down 2″ down from the top edge and identified the centre of the width of the lining.
  • Mark where the ends of the zipper extend to.
  • Using a Frixion pen (heat sensitive; so you can use an iron to make the marks disappear when you don’t need them any more) marka line where the zipper needs to sit.
  • Attach iron on interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric to reinforce the area where the zipper will be attached. (Some people don’t bother, but it does make everything nice and stable.)

Because I’ve used the Frixion pen, I have to remark it after pressing. I don’t mind, but you could just measure, align the interfacing and iron it in place without using the pen to mark it.

Step 4
Step 4

Refer to the photo (step 4) for this next bit.

  • Mark the placement of the zipper
  • Measure 1/4″ all around to show the seam allowance.

The end of the opening should be just barely past the top and bottom stops of the zipper. This way you won’t have to worry about those metal bits being in the way when you stitch it in place later on.

  • Draw a line to indicate end of opening (just barely past the top and bottom stops of the zipper).
  • Draw lines from the corners to the centre cutting line. You want this triangle to be big enough so that you have something to fold under and stitch.
  • Stay stitch along this line, then
  • Cut it open as shown in the photograph (step 6, top right image below).

For the stay stitching, you can use a fairly long stitch.

  • Align the zipper in the opening. Use the end triangles as your guide for the placement of the zipper. (see step 7 and 8, bottom left and adjacent image above) They should tuck under and sit just on either end of the zipper.
  • Pin this in place and then use that placement so you can pin the edges to the zipper tape along the top and bottom as shown in step 9 (bottom right above).
  • Stitch the zipper in place as shown in step 10 (below).
step 10
Step 10
  • Cut your pocket fabric to the width of the zipper tape and double the depth you want plus about 3/4″.
  • Serge the edges if you choose.
  • Pin the zipper to the bottom edge of the opening and stitch just along that edge as in step 12 (right image above).

You may have to move the zipper slider out of the way as you go. At this point, you can top stitch this portion of the zipper. It will be easiest to do this now. Do NOT top stitch around the ends yet.

  • Pin the zipper to the top edge of the opening and stitch in place.
  • Now, carefully stitch those little triangles at the ends of the zipper. Be careful that they are laying flat and not folded over the other seam lines.
  • Top stitch these ends. You will be stitching through all the layers of fabric at this point. Once they are stitched, top stitch the top edge of the zipper through all the layers.
  • Sew the side seams of the pocket closed. Step 16 and 17 (below) show this. I prefer to do two rows of stitching as these pockets tend to take a fair bit of abuse in my world. 🙂

Your lining now has a zippered pocket and is ready to be stitched into your bag.

You can use this technique to put a zippered pocket on the outside of the main bag as well, before attaching the lining and bag together.

step 18-turned

When you are ready to attach the lining to the bag, be sure to leave the better part of one side seam open on your lining fabric.

Once you have the opening of the bag attached to the lining, turn the whole thing right side out and then neatly stitch the side seam of the lining closed.

Happy Sewing!




With This Ring, I thee Strand!

Sometimes you see something and your immediate reaction is: “Well that’s hokey.” Sometimes you’re right. But sometimes you need to set your first impression aside and give it a chance to prove itself. My “Well that’s hokey” moment was with a ring designed for use in stranded knitting. I gave it a very skeptical try, and now I wonder how I ever lived without this clever little device.

A year ago, I entered the 2017 Tour de Sock competition.

The warm up pattern was my first experience with stranded colour knitting. In the chatter thread on the forum, people were talking about devices they used to manage their yarn. Some people used rings or springs to separate the strands, yet hold them in one hand. They swore by them. I looked for these products but my catalogues never had them. Then one day, I got an email from my supplier about new products they had brought in and the “Boye Finger Guides” were among them. I ordered them thinking that at least I would be able to offer something of this nature to my customers. When they arrived, it was busy. So I didn’t think about them much; I just got them into the inventory and onto the shelf. I then promptly forgot about them.

Tour de Sock 2018 is in now underway (registration ends July 7, 2018). I’m working on this season’s warm up sock; a stranded project. I got to the point that I was ready to turn the heel, and I remembered about the finger guides I had brought in. I took one out of the package, took a good look at it and I will be completely honest. I was fully prepared to expose this stranding ring for being silly.  It comes with no instructions. There is a photograph on the package that shows someone combining 3 strands of light yarn together to make one strand of thicker yarn as they knit a project. Of course, the image is set up to make the yarn look pretty. So you can’t use that image as any guide to how you should hold your yarn or use the product (in the real world).

First off, my preference is to knit in continental style. I tension the yarn with my left hand and I pick the thread with my right hand. Up until now, when doing stranded colour work, I carried my main or dominant colour in my left and my contrast colour in my right. I picked the main colour from my left hand and I threw the contrast colour with my right hand.

When I first learned how to strand, it took me a little while to get past the awkwardness of carrying two yarns at once.

Throwing the yarn with my right hand was very cumbersome at first.

Once I got accustomed to it, I found that I was almost as fast knitting with two colours as I was with one. Remembering this, I gave my attitude a shake. Trying anything new is going to be awkward and I really did want to be fair in my assessment of this product. I decided I would keep on trying long enough to get past the awkwardness of it being new to me.

So the ring itself is rubbery. It stretches and I would guess that it should fit most adult hands. The top of the ring is flat with a couple little holes.

There are three platforms that each have 3 hooks.
These are designed to accommodate

  • light,
  • medium or
  • heavy yarns.

Now, the heavy one looks to me like it would accommodate a worsted yarn. It might be okay for a chunky, but definitely nothing heavier. On the bottom of the platforms are a couple pegs that fit nicely into the holes on the flat top of the ring.


I selected the platform that was right for my yarn. I had to fuss around with it to figure out how to hold my yarn and which direction to have the hooks facing to get a sense of what would actually work and not end up slower than what I was already doing. I spent about half an hour with very poor results before I had a brain-wave. I won’t bore you with the details of all the things that failed.

In the end what I found to work well for me was to have the hooks face toward my left wrist. I brought the two yarns together, wrapped them around my pinky (as I always do to manage the tension),  and then I hooked the yarns in from opposite directions. So the main (dominant) colour I brought from the front of my hand over the top of the ring and into the far left hook. The contrasting yarn, I brought from behind my index finger, across the top of the ring and into the far right hook. I hold my index finger relatively high. Some folks hold it lower. I don’t expect that this would make much difference. This puts your index finger between the working yarns. You can easily choose the one you want from the correct orientation.

It’s important that you always keep the two yarns in the same position relative to each other in this type of knitting. One will always be taken from the left, the other always from the right.

Inconsistency results in sloppy colour dominance in the finished work.

On this particular pattern, the heel turn requires stranded purling. I am delighted to report that it was just as easy to purl using this ring using this set up, as it was to knit. Although it was very awkward to figure out what would work, once I found it, it was great, and fast. I love it!

Happy Knitting!

Toe-Up Socks Overview

There are two main approaches to knitting socks:

  1. Top-Down (also called Cuff-down) and
  2. Toe-Up

Today I want to focus on Toe-Up methods.

Whether you have knit a few pairs of socks or would simply like to learn how, toe-up is a great way to make socks. If you’ve never done it, I’ll give you an overview here with links to some good You-Tube videos to help you move forward.

There are a couple advantages to making toe-up socks.

  • It’s easy to check the sizing of the sock as you go.
  • There is no need to graft the toe closed when you finish knitting as it will already be closed right from the start.
  • Also, if you divide your ball of yarn into two equal balls at the start, by working toe-up, you will easily be able to see how long you can make the leg of the sock without worrying about running out of yarn. Typically, we can get 3 average socks out of a 100g ball of sock yarn.
  • If you like a tall sock, starting at the toe (ideally you would knit both socks in tandem, though it isn’t critical) you won’t have to guess how tall you can go. You’ll be able to see very clearly by what is left on the ball. And finally, using the short row heel method means you don’t have to pick up stitches along a heel flap.

Let me break it down a bit.

The very first step in any knitting project is going to be your cast-on. The toes of our socks are closed. When you start with the toe, your cast-on will have to take this fact into account. There are a number of different ways to cast on to create this closed end of the toe. Once you cast on your desired number of stitches, you will knit them in the round and increase to create the toe. I like to start with either 10 or 12 stitches on each needle. Some people like to start with as few as 6 per needle. It’s all about what you like. No matter which method you use, the process of making the sock is the same.

The most common closed cast-on methods include:

Turkish Cast-on


Judy’s Magic Cast-on (a different Judy, not me; this is her video)


Figure-8 Cast-on


Once you have cast on your toe, you will knit in the round.

You will need to increase your stitches to gradually get up to the size around your foot.

I usually increase 4 stitches every other row until I have 60 stitches. (I usually knit 1, m1, knit until there is 1 stitch left on needle #1, m1 and knit the last stitch. I then repeat this on needle #2.) What’s great about the toe up method is that you can easily try on the sock and adjust to the size you need as you go. Once it fits, stop increasing. The only thing to consider here is that if you want to do a ribbing when you get to the cuff or if you want to include a knitted pattern you will want your final number of stitches to divide evenly in a way that will work for your ribbing or pattern. For instance if you are doing a 2×2 rib, be sure that your total number of stitches divides by 4. If your pattern repeat is 8, be sure your number of stitches will divide by 8; so you may go with 56 or 64 or 72. If you have thick ankles, go a little larger.

Side note:

If you are making your socks one at a time, be sure to keep notes about what you do as you go so that you can be sure to match the second sock to the first. If you are inclined to knit two at a time, there are a couple ways to go about that. First and foremost, divide your yarn into two equal balls. Use a scale for this. Cast on the socks completely separately. Then, once they are cast on, you have the option of knitting the two socks on one needle side by side using a magic loop; on two circulars (needle 1 and needle 2); or in tandem on two separate sets of DPN’s, two magic loops or two sets of two circulars. These days, I’m using magic loop and knitting them side by side unless I’m doing complicated colour-work; then I do 2 separate magic loops.

Instep (the section of the sock that the main part of your foot goes in)

Once you have your toe completed, simply knit in the round until the sock is about 1.5 inches shorter than the length of your foot. If  you want to incorporate a pattern, decide which needle is #1 and which is #2. I like to keep #1 for the heel. So #1 gets knitted in stockinette (it will be on the sole of the foot) and #2 gets the pattern. You can think of it the other way around if you want, this is just what I do. Knit away in this manner until there is about 1.5″ left to the end of your heel. At this point, you’ll begin constructing your heel.


In this method, we use what is known as a “short row heel”. We knit needle #1 stitches back and forth at this time. You progressively knit fewer and fewer of the stitches on your needle while leaving the un-knit stitches resting on the same needle at either end as you go. You are building up a kind-of wedge like shape and then filling it in afterward. There are a few different ways of doing this. It will make more sense once you watch these videos.


German Short Row Heel


Japanese Short Row Heel


Short Row Heel with Shadow Wraps


Short Row Heel with Wrap and Turn


Once you complete the short row heel of your choosing, you simply continue knitting in the round to make the calf or leg of the sock. If you knitted a pattern on the instep of the sock, you will now knit that pattern all the way around the sock (instead of just on needle #2) until you get to where you want to start your ribbing. Knit your ribbing and then bind off with a stretchy bind-off.

Stretchy Bind Off


And there you go! I hope that this was helpful. As always, hat’s off to those fabulous people who created the videos that I have linked to. If you find you really like them, I encourage you to subscribe to their channels.

Happy Knitting!



Elastic Thread, Oh My!

Sometimes, a customer job request puts me in a position of having to do something that I have, until then, never had the occasion to do.

In over 30 years of sewing somehow I managed to never take the opportunity to try out elastic thread. One of my customers brought me a sun dress with an elastic-smocked bodice, to replicate. Who am I to turn down a chance to learn something new?

I wish I had been thinking about the potential of the project being inspiration for a blog post. I really should have taken photographs. Silly me! The dresses turned out fantastic.

When I first opened up the store, my thread supplier urged me to carry elastic thread. So I did. I never thought much about it until a customer came in and asked me how to use it. We googled it together and discovered that you use it on the bobbin. You hand wind it without stretching it. Use a regular thread on the top and away you sew. That was as far as I took it at the time. I have to be honest. When this recent job came up, I was a little concerned about whether using elastic thread would be frustrating or difficult.

It really wasn’t troublesome at all.

I did discover a few things that I would have been happy to know before I started. On the first dress (she wanted two dresses) I just dove in and after serging the raw edges I started sewing parallel lines of smocking. I realized after, it would have been much easier to create the channel for the 10mm elastic at the top edge before I started smocking. It was a nuisance to have to stretch the jersey against all those rows of elastic stitches and try to estimate where “neutral” was in regard to the fabric’s natural stretchiness, so everything would line up without getting a bunch of angled ripples in the channel. I managed fine, but it certainly wasn’t the easiest method. I did the channel first on the second dress and that went smoothly.

If you’re going to use jersey for the smocking (or any other knit… well actually, any kind of fabric at all), you’re going to want to take the oh-so-tedious-and-boring-as-anything time it takes to mark your parallel lines before you start sewing.

I get impatient. On the first dress I figured, “parallel lines? Pfff! I can do those in my sleep!” Yeah, in normal conditions: no problemo. However add in the jersey with its lovely stretch and the fact that with each additional row of gathering it takes more effort to ensure that the jersey is neutral (not being stretched as you work) so that your estimated distance from the previous row of smocking remains parallel.

Remember that parallel is a mathematical term. It refers to lines that are equidistant from each other… not wibbly-wobbly, kind-of, sort-of, going mostly in the same-ish direction. Not that my lines were all that bad. They were satisfactory. Not mathematically precise… but you definitely couldn’t tell in the finished product. The issue is that you work the gathering on the flat fabric and sew the centre back seam up when you are all done the smocking. So if your rows of gathering don’t line up at the centre back, it looks really sloppy. Also, we tend to notice when a series of stacked lines are grossly non-parallel.  It definitely draws the eye.. You don’t want to have particularly uneven lines across your boobs. Also, you don’t want to have to start picking this stuff apart. So yeah… take the time to mark it, all the way across the width of the fabric. In the case of the jersey, that’s all 60″ (or 152.4 cm).

Trust me, when you sew it, these marked lines will make you happy.

It took me around an hour and a half per dress to do all the smocking and finishing. I made spaghetti straps and used a Prym bra fasteners kit for the rings and the slide buckles. This way the straps were adjustable.

Oh, and I also used a Prym turning kit. This was pretty cool. It comes with three sizes of turning tools. Each consists of a tube and a wooden stick. You sew your strap and close one end. Then, you slide the tube inside the strap all the way to the closed end. Take the stick and use it to push the fabric into the tube, all the while sliding the fabric along the outside of the tube as the stick pushes it through the centre of the tube. One end of the stick is pointed, the other is flat. I used the flat end so that the point wouldn’t stress the fabric as it was forced through the tube. If the edges on that end would have needed to be turned neatly I would have reinserted the stick with the pointed end first so that I could use that to get the corners all perfect. I liked it! The kit now sits in my “must be close on hand… but not so close it has to be in my tool belt” drawer.

Only trouble with all of this is that now I am looking at all my fabric thinking,

“could I use elastic thread on this?”

Oi veh! I need to get out more!

Happy Sewing!