Two Knitting Reviews in One

This winter I brought in Estelle Superwash Merino DK; it’s here in all of the 25 currently available colours. My goal — when bringing in an entire line — is to make up a sample project so people can see how it works up. This time I made up a Sople cardigan and I’m excited to tell you all about both.

The yarn

Estelle Superwash Merino DK currently comes in 25 colours, in 50g balls with 125m. This very soft and smooth yarn is perfect to knit stranded colourwork sweaters. You don’t have to commit to 100g balls of each colour for just that bit you need along the yoke and cuffs. The suggested gauge is 22 stitches on 4mm needles over 10cm.

It was a joy to knit. I was able to see my stitches easily. The texture of the yarn looks a little cable-like as you are knitting it up. I found that was less noticeable once I washed it. As with most superwash yarn, I found that I had to be careful not to stretch it while blocking. It washed beautifully; came out soft and gorgeous. It did end up a wee bit bigger after it dried. (I plan to knit up a little swatch, measure it, run it through the laundry and see how it fares before I risk putting the sweater in the dryer.) There was almost no colour in the rinse water at all.

The pattern

I knitted up Sople by Justyna Lorkowska. I purchased and downloaded it from Ravelry. You may recall me writing about her pattern “Alicia Beth” about a year ago (that project is in time-out because I changed my mind about the colours and need to make a decision). This great little Sople sweater is fitted, with 3/4 sleeves and all-in-one, top-down construction. Although mostly stockinette, there is enough pattern to keep from getting bored. Since I don’t speak Polish, I had no sense of what might have inspired this design. It looked like calla lilies or maybe candles to me. Turns out Sople translates to “icicles”.

This may come across as a bit of a rant. Bear with me, please.

There are so many badly written patterns in this world. I see customers who get stuck because of either poorly written or poorly translated instructions. I spend a lot of time going over such patterns with them to help them to continue. It is exceedingly frustrating when patterns are difficult to follow, have poor (or worse, no) legend or glossary and are just confusing. I often wonder whether some designers are so highly skilled and capable that they forget that not everyone knows what they know, or can do what they do. Let’s face it. We knit (or crochet or sew or whatever) because it brings us pleasure. A poor pattern can take all the joy out of a project. Now, in all fairness, there is always a little bit of a process to familiarize yourself with a designer’s particular way of explaining things. But that aside, when you find a really good designer, it is such a wonderful thing.

Forgive me if I gush here. Justyna is an excellent designer and I don’t know whether she writes the patterns herself or has a team to help her. Whatever she’s doing though, she does it well. Obviously, I worked off the English pattern that was a translation… an excellent translation! My hat’s off to whoever made that happen. My only criticism was that because the PDF paper size was European and simply would not shrink to our North American letter size for me. I had to I open it in Adobe Acrobat Pro, resize and save it as a new PDF before I could print on letter sized paper. I like to have one copy on my tablet in Knit Companion, and a printed paper copy that I can scribble notes on. (I did message her and mention the page size issue). And hey, if that’s seriously the worst criticism, that is a fantastic pattern.

The sweater is constructed in one piece from the top down.

You start with a provisional cast on; knit the fronts first to the armpit, then the back down to the same point, put all the stitches from fronts and backs onto one long circular needle (don’t twist a front, like I did though) and complete the body. You pick up stitches for the sleeves as you go and knit them directly into the sleeve opening. It’s a pretty clever construction method. I love me a seamless sweater!

The front gets a button band; I chose to add 8 buttons on mine because I liked the look of it. The neck is finished with an I-band edge. There is a lovely pattern knitted into the fabric as I mentioned above. I did get a little complacent when I was knitting the second sleeve and I missed the point where you start the icicle above the cuff. I had to frog it back and rework it. That was on me though. I just got lazy and tried to go by my memory instead of checking the pattern. I used a stretchy bind off and I would use that again, except for the bases of the cables, those I would use a regular bind off to keep them from going twiddly.

Clearly the construction method is not typical.

I would encourage anyone working this pattern to take the time to read through the entire pattern a few times before starting. I think I read it three times. I generally find that I need to do that with this sort of unique pattern to wrap my brain around what to expect. That having been said, you may not immediately understand how it will all come together and you do (at some point) simply have to trust the pattern. You can trust this pattern though.

I adore the way this sweater fits me and before I completely forget what my notes mean, I plan to tidy up my pattern scribbles so that I could potentially use the pattern again, and perhaps do the whole thing in stockinette. I’m stoked with my new cardigan! I apologize that I don’t have any photos of me wearing it. No selfies here. I’m not photogenic and I’m quite self conscious about that. Maybe I’ll add some later when I have someone who can take a nice photo for me. 😀

Meanwhile… Happy Knitting!

Sewing Mitered Corners

Mitered corners look tidy and fancy. Most things we see (tea towels, table cloths, place mats and so on) have quickly finished edges. Many of them are simply a twice-turned (sometimes called “rolled”) hem, or a serged edge that has been turned and stitched. I call this a “serge and turn” if you can still see the serged stitches and a “serge and roll” if you can’t. If you are looking for a way to take a simple project up a notch.

Try making it with a wide hem with mitered corners.

Before I get started, I want to acknowledge that this may end up looking like a whole lot of words. Please take the time to read and then compare to the photos. This process is a wee bit counter-intuitive. I have sincerely tried to be as clear as I know how to be.

First off, you need to plan your project accordingly. I like to allow 1.25 inches for my hem when doing a mitered corner. This gives me a quarter inch to tuck under and one inch of fabric that shows off the miter. So I will add 2.5 inches to my desired finished width and length. For instance, if I want my table runner to be 12″ x 18″ when finished, I would cut out my fabric to measure 14.5″ x 20.5″.


Experienced sewers may be able to eyeball a quarter inch edge.

If you can do that, all the power to you! If you don’t think you would be able to do that evenly, or it would take you a long time to do so, I have a couple tips for you: If you have a serger, you can serge around the outside edge of the fabric. This gives you a quarter inch seam allowance that you can easily see and turn under. I encourage you to choose a thread colour that blends in with your fabric. This will hide any imperfections when you tuck the edge under and stitch it in place. If you don’t have a serger, you can run a row of stitching a quarter inch from the edge as a guide for turning your seam allowance. Use a thread colour that looks good with your fabric, that you can see, but that won’t look ugly if it shows a little after you are done. Both of these tips are optional, but they will make doing the corners much easier. There are presser feet that are designed to align a quarter inch from the edge of the fabric. If you don’t have one, they are a handy addition to your tool box.

You will need to mark your fabric in some way.

You will be marking on the right side of the fabric. You can use dressmaker’s chalk, a Pilot Frixion pen or other fabric marking pen.  If using a pen, please, please, PLEASE take the time to test it on your fabric before you use it. Frixion pens react to heat and marks should disappear when you press your project. But, I have had a few times when it didn’t completely disappear. I’m not sure whether it is an issue of fibre content or ink colour that causes this. Some fabric marking pens are water soluble and the ink washes away. I don’t have a lot of personal experience using the water soluble pens; both Dritz and Prym make these. I have many customers who swear by them. I usually use DM chalk or Frixion pens.

Marking the outer turn line:

Measure and mark your turn line 1.25 inches from each of your edges respectively. Do this on the right side of the fabric. You will end up with squares drawn on each corner.

Marking for the mitered corners:

Turn your fabric so you can work on the wrong side now. What you need here, is to mark the corners to prepare for the miters. If you have a grid ruler* use it to mark the 1.25″ lines at the corners; measure from the outer edge the way you did on the last step. Notice on my photograph that I marked the 1.25″ turn line about 2″ further than the corners of the squares. This is important. (*I highly recommend having at least a 4″x4″ grid ruler in your tool box. A 3″x18″ and a 6″x24″ are the other sizes I couldn’t live without. Olfa, Omnigrid and Fiskars all make very good grid rulers.)

Next, mark another set of lines 1 inch in from the lines you just made. Notice that this has created two more squares beside the corner square? These are important.

If you didn’t serge the edge, or stitch a quarter inch guideline, then take the time to mark where that quarter inch edge is now. You will thank me later.

Take a moment to notice what you have created. You should have 4 one inch squares drawn in the corner, with a quarter inch edge at the edge of the fabric. Think of that edge as being separate from your squares.

Now using a ruler (do not eyeball this) draw a line. Start at the point where the square meets the outer line at the edge of the fabric (2.25″ from the corner) through both squares and end at the outer line. You did not mark in the outer quarter inch. This creates a triangle with the corner of the fabric; it should bisect two squares. Your line should go through the point where the four squares meet in the middle. This is very important. This is your stitching line.


If you are doing this for the first time, I recommend that you just mark one corner to begin with. Once you have sewn it and you understand what it is you have to do, then mark the other three. That way, if you misunderstood the instructions on the first one, you don’t have to undo anything before you can proceed.

Creating the Mitre:

Fold your fabric at the corner with right sides together. You are creating a triangle here. You will be able to see your corner markings. Be careful to align all the edges accurately. You may find it helpful to pin the edges in place so they don’t shift while you are working. Line your work up so that the quarter inch edge is toward the back of the presser foot. Align the needle and presser foot with your stitching line. Your needle should be placed at the point where the stitching line meets the quarter inch seam allowance. DO NOT SEW OVER THE SEAM ALLOWANCE.

Secure the stitching by back tacking (sew forward and back a couple times) and stitch to the end of the stitching line. Secure the stitching again.

Trim the extra fabric away. Looking at the raw edge that you just trimmed, one end is the original edge of the fabric, the other is where the fabric was folded. Clip the fold from the edge to the stitching line.

Turn the corner right side out. Don’t press it yet because that would erase your markings. Use your finger or a point turner (another tool I couldn’t live without) arrange the seam allowance open. In other words, you want there to be seam allowance laying on both sides of the seam you created, inside the corner.

Once you have all four corners mitered, carefully line them up with the markings so they lay nice and flat. Press the corners. I recommend that you now press along the turn line all the way around the project. Take your time with this so that you get a nice smooth edge. If you chose a loose fabric, you should probably pin that edge in place at this point. Now you can easily turn that quarter inch edge under and top stitch as close to the edge as you can manage.

Ta-Dah! You just made a mitered table mat. Congratulations!

Reflecting on Tour-de-Sock

Tour-de-Sock is coming to a close for 2017.

What an experience it was for me. For anyone unfamiliar, TDS is a sock knitting competition and fundraiser. Money raised by the competition is donated to Doctors without Borders.

The competition is made up of 5 stages. (This year there was a warm up round as well). In each stage a sock pattern is made available at a specific time (announced in advance) for all the competitors to access. Racers from all over the world then download the sock pattern and following strict guidelines knit each pattern respectively. Photos of the completed pair of socks are then submitted. The photos must clearly show the front and back and size of the socks and both socks. This way moderators can inspect them to be sure that everyone followed the instructions and did the work expected to qualify for that stage of the competition and to make it fair to everyone.

My friend and fellow sock knitter invited me to join her team.

I’m so glad she did!

The anticipation was fantastic. I really wasn’t sure what to expect. With each stage of the competition there was tremendous excitement leading up to the pattern drop. The discussion boards were busy with chatter as the competitors tried to guess what the next round would bring. We were given advance notice of what materials we would need for the next round. Many people were traveling while in the competition so they would have to be sure they brought what they would need along.

I’m glad that I wasn’t traveling.

As each pattern dropped, I generally found that I didn’t actually want to use the yarn I had originally picked out based on the specs provided. I really needed to see the pattern first.

I discovered that Finns are incredibly fast knitters!

Round after round, the early finishers were “Finnishers”. In some rounds the first socks were already posted in less than 24 hours from when the pattern dropped. I realized right away that there was no way I was going to be able to out-knit them. I wanted to push myself and see what I could do though. I really hoped I could manage to finish at least one pair in the top 100 finishers. All things considered. I think I did pretty well. There were around 1700 competitors.

  • In stage 1 I finished at #180;
  • stage 2 at #105;
  • stage 3 at #205;
  • stage 4 at #172 and
  • stage 5 at #74 (HURRAH).

After starting on stage 6, which employed a jacquard colour stranding technique and 4 colours of yarn, it took me a little more than 10 hours to knit just one cuff. I was not in love with the pattern. I decided to throw in the towel on that round. Besides just thinking about the number of hours it would take, I had a lot of new sewing work come in the store and I really needed to put my full attention back on work.


In every round I learned a new skill.

I ended up with 6 completed pairs of socks. The patterns I knitted were not necessarily patterns I would have ever chosen to knit. Yet I thoroughly enjoyed making them. I discovered that I love doing stranded colourwork. Well, I love knitting with 2 colours. Using 4 colours (stage 6) was just a bit more awkward than I wanted to navigate. I fell in love with some designers that I didn’t know about before. I really pushed myself and I feel proud of what I accomplished.

I can only imagine the huge amount of work involved in administrating a competition like TDS. My hat’s off to all the people who poured their free time, their passion, their skills and their talents into making TDS happen. My life is richer for participating.

I can hardly wait for it to start next year; sign me up!

Mosaics aren’t just for patios

Until recently I thought mosaics were just patterns created out of little bits of tile on patio floors or on the walls of really old buildings. You know, like the Mesopotamians did? We’re now on stage 4 of the Tour-de-Sock sock knitting competition and this round’s pattern introduced me to knitting in Mosaic technique. I’m always up for trying something new.

This was definitely new to me.

The pattern is called Mosaic Marbles and is designed by Kirsten Hall. Her directions were easy to follow. If you are curious to see what else Kirsten has designed, here is a link to a search I did on her name in Ravelry.

She’s got some bold and colourful designs. Gorgeous!

Her on Ravelry

Mosaic knitting is a method of doing stranded colourwork. Unlike Fair Isle, you knit with only one colour at a time, alternating “row” by “row”. The colourwork is charted. What makes it different is that along one side of the chart is a column in which the colour for that “row” is indicated. You knit across with that colour and slip the stitches of the contrasting colour (according to the chart). So you are not carrying both colours at once. This pattern requires that you do two rounds (1 row) in one colour and then switch to the other and do two rounds of that one. Again, you follow the chart and knit the second colour stitches and slip the first colour stitches twice around.

Here is a video about Mosaic Knitting. Suzanne Bryan is showing it on a flat piece of knitting. It’s actually easier to do in the round because you don’t have to worry about purling.

There were a couple things that I had to work out. One  was how to deal with the yarn so I wouldn’t get it tangled. I found that if I just took a moment when turning my work to the next needle, I could see where to move the yarn so that I could keep the two colours from winding around each other.

The pattern is kind of stripey. Anyone who has knitted stripes (in the round) before knows that typically you get a jog in the stripes along the column of stitches where you joined the work in the round. There was a very cool little tip included in the pattern to keep that from happening. It took me a bit to catch on, but I have the hang of it now.

I’m very excited about this.

I’m sure generations of knitters have known about this forever but it’s new to me. So, I’m going to share it because it’s cool and helpful.

  1. As you come to the end of the round with one colour, you knit the first stitch of the next round with the colour that just finished. Yes, it’s counter-intuitive. But wait, there’s more.
  2. You put it back onto the left needle.
  3. Go ahead and start knitting with the next colour as you normally would.
  4. When you come back around again, you need to snug up the yarn on that sneaky little tricky stitch. At first, I was just pulling on my working yarn, and didn’t realize that it actually takes a fairly good strong tug to tighten that transition stitch. My first sock (up until I figured it out that is) has a very laddery side; I’m going to just leave it that way. I suppose I could get all fussy and carefully pull the extra yarn into the surrounding stitches, but meh, it really doesn’t bother me that much.

I took photos so you can see how much you actually have to tug that yarn and also, to show how nicely the stripes line up when you get it right. I’m very happy with the result.

I’m loving this pattern and this technique. It’s actually pretty quick to do. Every other row is a repeat of the charted row you just did, so you are only really reading the chart half the time. It’s actually easy. But the result is dramatic. The pattern also has a star toe. I had never done this before. If you hate doing Kitchener Stitch to graft toes, you might quite like this method. And there you have it! I’m off to finish the second sock now.

Happy Knitting!

More Knitted Buttonholes

Last week I gathered a number of videos together that demonstrate horizontal knitted buttonholes. There are other ways to make buttonholes in a knitted garment. Today I’ll touch on three more types:

  1. Yarn-Over (Eyelet) Buttonholes,
  2. Vertical Buttonholes and
  3. “Afterthought” Button Loops.

If you are making something that can use small buttons, like a baby sweater or a headband, you can actually use an eyelet as a buttonhole. These are technically called yarn-over buttonholes, but you often see them called eyelet buttonholes as well. In my Summer Hair Band #1 pattern from a number of weeks ago, the pattern is made up of staggered rows of eyelets and you actually use a row of those eyelets as buttonholes. These are very easy to make and work well for relatively small buttons.

Yarn-Over/Eyelet Buttonhole over 1 stitch (in stockinette stitch and 1×1 ribbing)

Yarn-Over Eyelet Buttonhole over 2 stitches (in 2×2 ribbing)

This is an excellent video. She explains and demonstrates how to avoid interrupting the knitted pattern very nicely in this video.


Next we have a demonstration of the vertical buttonhole. Vertical buttonholes are not the most stable, but they do look quite nice and discreet. They are not difficult, but they are a little more fussy to do. This is only because you have to use an additional piece of yarn and then weave in the ends afterward.

Vertical Buttonhole


Another way to add a buttonhole is to create a button loop after the garment is completed. The nice thing about this technique is that it doesn’t interrupt the knitting process as you go. This means that it doesn’t change any pattern you have knitted in. Also, you can actually put off deciding what size buttons you want to use until after the garment is complete.

Button Loop (or Afterthought Buttonhole) using 3 strands


The previous video shows the process of making a button loop close up and slowly. The next one shows you the entire process right to the end on an obvious garment. You can actually see how it looks in relation to the garment. The only thing I would add to these is that I would actually put the intended button through the loop before I commit to the size so I’m sure it will work for the button I want. If you haven’t chosen a button, I would say at least decide what size of button you want to use so that the proportion appeals to you.


Button Loop (Afterthought Buttonhole) using 2 strands


I hope that this selection of videos will be helpful to you. Most patterns will give you directions for the type of buttonhole that the designer intends. Having an overview of the different types of buttonholes possible can help to understand those directions a little easier. Also, if you find that you don’t like the style that a designer has proposed, you have the tools to be able to swap it out for one that you prefer.

It’s good to have options! 🙂

I want to add a little side-note about YouTube videos. I absolutely love the fact that so many people share their skills in this amazing and easily accessible format. I have the utmost respect for them, for their time and their skill and their willingness to share that. I share links to these videos with that in mind. When you find a YouTuber that explains and demonstrates things in a way that works well for you, I encourage you to subscribe to their channel. There are loads of fantastic videos out there.

Show your love and appreciation by liking, sharing and subscribing for these amazing and creative people.


Over the long weekend we completely rearranged the store. If you have been here before, you won’t recognize it!

Isn’t it funny how when you imagine rearranging,

it all seems so straightforward and seamless in your mind?

And then you get started. Because the stuff is all switching places, you have to move a bunch of things to make some space to move the other things into before you can then move the first stuff to where it’s supposed to go.

Yup, then that perfect plan you have imagined in your mind’s eye? Well it turns out that the laws of physics prevent that from existing without employing some sort of inter-dimensional parallel universe… well at least that’s what happens to me. My step-son and I spent well over an hour trying to arrange the thread cabinets before we finally abandoned the original vision and put them somewhere completely different.

My sewing department was so cramped that it was frustrating and stressful to work. We now have a large area where my many industrial sewing machines have room for me to work comfortably. I didn’t realize how cramped it really was until after the move. It’s such a relief now that it’s basically done. It will take a while just to get used to the new work flow. I’m sure I’ll be tweaking it for a while to make it nice and efficient.

The yarn and notions displays are a bit more compact, but still roomy enough that several people can be browsing without being in each others’ way. The new area made it a lot easier to group all the craft supplies together; the knitting tools; the crochet tools and the yarn as well. It’s actually easier to find what you’re looking for now. I’m still hoping to come up with a better way to display the patterns.

We set up a separate table for me to work at so that the old cutting table is available all the time for cutting yard-goods for customers. We also have an incoming counter for doing up work orders for jobs and a separate check-out counter for handling sales and out-going work. Best of all, Irene and I are no longer tripping over each other. YAY!

Of course, it wasn’t actually on my radar to do all that on the long weekend. I was expecting to be sewing; I’m a little behind with that now. We definitely needed the entire long weekend to manage it. Even with me, my sweetheart and his grown son we had to put in very long days to have it mostly done in time to open on Tuesday. Then, on Tuesday I was vacuuming and dusting and cleaning in general for most of the day. Wednesday I figured I earned a day off. I left Irene in charge and took a day away. And now I just need to get the sewing caught up, which I hope I can do over the weekend.

Isn’t it amazing how much chaos you have to wade through to create order? But it’s so worth it!

Spring Knitting

The sun is out, the sky is clear and a gorgeous blue. I can hear the swallows calling each other. There is a gentle breeze and if you stand in the sunshine, it feels gloriously warm. (Of course this is Revelstoke, so all that could change by the time I finish writing my blog.) When winter finally says good-bye for real and the days are consistently warm my appetite for knitting changes. It also has some real competition now that I can be out in my garden enjoying the warmer weather.

The types of yarn that attract me change when the weather gets warm. Instead of reaching for wool and acrylic blends I find myself reaching for bamboo, cotton, linen and blends that incorporate these fibres. The chunky and bulky yarns don’t appeal to me quite so much now and I find myself looking for 4-ply and DK yarns instead. That’s not to say I give up wool altogether; after all sock yarn is 4-ply, that’s light enough to work on when it’s warm outside. Although if I’m inclined to knit cotton socks, now would be the time. That having been said,

any time of year is a good time to knit socks as far as I’m concerned.

I find myself thinking about light and breezy patterns for summery garments and coverups, crafty things like bags and doll dresses, tea cozies or lacy things. With winter (in our Mountain resort town) being my really busy season both for sewing and for the yarn shop, I often find myself feeling a bit like the end of April and beginning of May exist so that I can recover from the intensity of the winter season. I still have to work and the sewing never actually stops, but it usually lightens up and I can slow down enough to realize that I’m tired. My sweetheart can tell where I am on the exhaustion scale by what and how I knit. When I don’t pick up my knitting at all, I should just go to bed… and he doesn’t hesitate to tell me so. I’ve had a whole week of not picking up my knitting at all. I had good intentions of making up a pattern this week but clearly, that didn’t happen. LOL And it’s all good. I’ve always been one to push myself hard and sometimes I just need to back off and chill. But that doesn’t stop me from thinking about knitting. Bob says that if I ever stop thinking about knitting, he’ll have to rush me to the hospital to find out what’s wrong with me. 😛

I have some lovely summery yarns in my store and I thought I’d show you them and see if I can offer some springtime inspiration. I’d love it if you would leave a comment below to suggest things that you like to knit or crochet during the warmer seasons. I am looking for some inspiration too. 🙂 I’ve been scanning looking for a summer shawl pattern that will work well with the Diamond Luxury Tropicalia yarn. It’s so pretty with the hint of shine from the viscose.

Anne crochet cotton

Anne Crochet Cotton: 100% Cotton; 27S X 30R on 3 – 3.5mm needles

Mulberry silk

Diamond Luxury Mulberry Silk 50% Alpaca, 25% Mulberry Silk, 25% Linen; 22S x 28R on 4mm needles

Pima colori cotton

Diamond Luxury Pima Lino Colori Cotton: 60% Pima Cotton, 40% Linen; Laceweight

Diamond Luxury summertime

Diamond Luxury Summertime: 55% Cotton, 45% Acrylic; 20S x 28R on 4 to 4.5mm needles

Diamond Luxury tropicalia

Diamond Luxury Tropicalia: 55% Cotton, 45% Viscose; 22-24S x 26 – 30R on 4mm needles

Knitca cotton

Knitca Cotton: 100% Cotton; 21S X 5R on 4mm needles

wavy cotton

Knitca Wavy: 100% Cotton; 16S X 18R on 4mm needles

Solo Cotone sock yarn

Lana Grossa Solo Cotone; 37S X 29R on 3 – 3.5mm needles

Nako Fiore

Nako Fiore: 25% Linen, 35% Cotton, 40% Bamboo; 25S X 35R on 3 – 3.5mm needles

Nako solare

Nako Solare: 100% Cotton; 25S x 37R on 2.5 – 3.5mm needles

Nova plus cotton cool

Nova Plus Cotton Cool: 100% Cotton; 18S X 24R on 4.5mm needles

Sirdar Baby Bamboo

Sirdar Baby Bamboo: 80% Bamboo, 20% Wool; 22S X 28R on 4mm needles

Supersock stretch cotton

Supersocke Cotton Stretch Uni: 41% Wool, 39% Cotton, 13% Polyamide, 7% Polyester; 30S x 42R on 2.5 – 3mm needles

There are a lot of other yarns available to satisfy all our spring and summer knitting desires. I hope this little sampling serves to inspire you. Happy Knitting!